To Understand

Soon soon hok. 007. Even in Thai his name is Bond, James Bond. Friday night my director invited me to dinner with her and her friends and after we finished an amazing meal we went and saw the new Bond movie, Skyfall. Even though the movie was dubbed over in Thai the action spoke for itself—there was a bad guy, there was a couple beautiful women, lots of guns and things exploded. I got the basic plot and understood the movie. Spoiler alert: He gets the bad guy and all is well at MI6.

007

007

Last week was our first full week in Kamphaeng Phet. I’m trying to establish some sort of routine, develop healthy habits and feel a sense of community. Again, my director invited my roommate and I to attend yoga class with her. Being familiar with yoga I wasn’t nervous about not getting the poses. Neung, song, sam…kaow. One, two, three…breathe in. It’s not difficult to understand if you are looking and listening.

Running the Historical Park each day I have been able to see and recognize (and surely they recognize the White Lady) many men who also enjoy a hot, sweaty run. Some smile. Some wave. Some nod their heads. Some don’t acknowledge the fellow runner, just like in the states it’s all about what you feel like doing. All this in recognition of us all being runners and enjoying the same high—no matter what side of the planet we’re on, it’s the same. We understand.

To understand another culture is one thing. To accept the fact that I am probably not going to learn Thai to fluency, I’m not going to be able to order a meal with out a crazy game of charades, I’m not going to learn all the vocabulary to get through an entire yoga class with out bending when I’m supposed to stand or breathing out when I’m supposed to breathe in—I know these facts. But the ability to understand is coming, it’s developing.

With that said, that doesn’t mean that this isn’t hard. It doesn’t mean that every day isn’t going to be a struggle, because it is. What it does mean is that I’m learning to grow. I’m learning to communicate in different ways. A simple attempt at the language brings a smile to the old ladies face who sold me some weird fruit I hadn’t seen before. Kahb kuhn, kaah. Thank you very much.

 

A smile is the best reaction. A smile is universally understood. In all the confusion, frustration and difficulties I find myself smiling. A smile of gratitude, a smile of uncertainty, and a smile a joy. Because you know what? I’m in THAILAND. How could I not smile at that fact?

Wai. Why. Why?

Here in Thailand to greet someone you wai. Much like the cheek kisses received in South American countries you wai when you greet and when you depart. A wai is a bow or a prayer like motion to show respect and say Hello!

However, it is also a sign of value, a sign of admiration and it’s just what you do. There are three levels: high wai, middle wai, and low wai.

 

The High wai is reserved for those in the highest standing: a Monk, the King (or an image of the King,) and a Buddha symbol. The hands are placed in a prayer at the forehead and you bow down with a smile.

 

The Middle wai is for those in a higher standing than yourself: for elders, for educators, for your boss, your mother and the police officer that you may be paying off to not giving you a ticket. The hands are placed in a prayer at the nose level and again, you bow with a smile. Always a smile.

 

The Low wai is for those in a lower or equal standing: your peers, coworkers, friends and children younger than you. The hands should be placed at the chin and you bow with a smile!

 

Thai wai: everyone's doin' it!

Thai wai: everyone’s doin’ it!

One common thread throughout this country is the amount of smiling the people do. Thailand is literally called The Land Of Smiles—Thai people not only smile when they’re happy but, they smile when they’re nervous, confused or curious. I’ve found myself catching onto this ritual. The language barrier is so great that when I have no idea what someone is saying I just have to put on a big goofy grin and try to remain calm with the fact that I have no clue what is happening around me. I repeat the phrase that is so common here Mai pen rai. Translating to never mind! don’t worry! it’s okay! It is more than just a phrase, it’s a way of life in the Thai culture.

 

School starts tomorrow and I’m teaching Kindergarten, 4th-6th and 9th-11th grades. I’m terrified. I’m sterrified.

 

 

Mai pen rai.

Ubon and the Motorbike Adventure!

Earlier this week our director had told us (us being my roommate, Heather, and I) that town (where we could shop, get food, hang out by the river) was only about 2km away. Not bad, totally walkable I thought—until I saw a sign that read town was 4km away, the edge of town. Not the center where all the food carts are, but the edge of town where the police station is located.

Heather and I were hungry and bored of being stuck in our little white house with the white picket fence—so we set off for town on foot! Walking against the traffic (to be safe) on a busy road the two farangs got lots of stares; I can only imagine what the locals were snickering to each other in Thai as they zoomed by on their motorbikes—most overloaded with children and goods from the market.

Our little house

Our little house

Fast forward 20 or so minutes, rounding the bend just past one of the many parks that has historical ruins and big Buddhas, a woman on a motorbike says Stop! Stop! Teachas? Teachas?

Yes! Heather and I both say, confused…we are the only whities in this town but how did she know we were teachers?

I…am Ubon. Our director had told us of Ubon! She was our motorbike lady! Ubon’s English is limited and we begin conversing in a series of wild arm flails and wild gestures. This game of charades eventually led to me getting on the bike with Ubon, Heather taking a seat next to a big Buddha and Ubon and I zooming away in the sunset to go get copies of our house keys and a quick tour of Kamphaeng Phet.

River Ping

River Ping

This is the moment KP got so much cooler. As we drove along the Ping River I notice many sets of outdoor fitness equipment, people walking and running on the sidewalk along the river, games of tennis, hacky sack and other sports starting up and then the big market where Heather and I were told to get dinner and sit by the river to eat. Ubon was basically my new best friend.

I assumed she and I would circle back and pick Heather up and we would all go get a meal together, flailing, gesturing and pantomiming our way through the evening. However, when we got to Heather Ubon got off the bike and gestured me to get in the driver’s seat. I gave my best really? Face and quickly hopped forward. I zoomed around the parking lot once or twice before Heather hopped on.

Ubon waved goodbye as we maneuvered the bike onto the Thai road and rode away to go get some dinner by the river.

 

Market

Market

As I’ve traveled through my years I’ve learned to just go with the flow. In Chile I rarely had a clue what was going on but things worked out, people are here to help us and Ubon saw us and recognized us at the exact right time. By not being afraid, not being too nervous and just going with it I’m finding travel and life to be way more enjoyable!

 

Down by the riverside

Down by the riverside

The phrase in Thai Mai pen rai literally translates to not to worry or not a problem. But it’s more of a way of life here. Mai pen rai.

 

Safety first

Safety first

 

**Stay tuned for more on the Riverside awesomeness…I have yet to completely explore all the options of amazing things to do!